Although engagement rings are relatively small objects, the number of processes and detail necessary to create one will surely surprise you! Read on to learn about this micro-art and multi-level process.
Inspiration
So without the ‘idea’, there is no ring! This is the genesis of the ring if you like – the concept. Each designer works in their own way but for me my inspiration can come from my life experiences, my muses and for bespoke commissions, my clients likes, dislikes and style. It’s also important to add that at times I have no idea where my inspiration comes from – it just comes to me!
Design
This is where pencil meets paper and the inspiration becomes tangible ring styles and concepts and ideas. The engagement ring design process is a really enjoyable process - as the idea evolves, different modifications are attempted until ultimately a beautiful unique engagement ring is formed - with the wedding band in mind! I personally find it very important to sketch first and at the right time I will turn my computer on and start to work on the design in CAD (computer aided design). This is when we start to get super precise and I can view the uniquely designed ring from absolutely every angle. It really is all about the details!
Gemstones
During the design stage we also need to make a diamond and gemstone selection. This never fails to delight – it’s almost like being in a sweet shop! There is an infinite choice of bright, high quality diamonds be them natural or lab grown diamonds, and of course vivid coloured gemstones. Depending on the commission at hand and the carat weight required, clients may depend on my choice or want to select the stone themselves. As with many jewellers, all the stones we deal with are from ethical sources.
Prototype
Once I have reached a point with my custom engagement rings design that I and the customer are happy with, I usually create a life-size wax model of the ring. This gives the client a real understanding of how the piece of jewellery looks on the finger and it gives me a deeper understanding of the ‘real’ aesthetics, not just on a computer screen.
Casting
If the prototype is bang on the money, then it is time to go precious! It’s time to cast the ring. After making a production ready CAD file which is emailed to the casters, another wax is created by 3D printing and this is then cast into the desired precious metal be it platinum, & white, rose or yellow gold. The casting process is quite complex but just imagine that the wax form of the ring is replaced by molten metal – using what is called the lost-wax casting process. The casters then QC the casting and then it’s off to the hallmarkers…
Hallmarking
This is where the bespoke engagement rings metal is tested to ensure that it has the right percentage of gold or platinum. Once this is established then the ring is stamped or lasered with a number of marks relating to the metal, date of the stamp, location of the hallmark office and the maker of the ring. Not every country does this and in the UK it is a great stamp of authenticity to reassure the consumer.
Goldsmithing
It is now time for the super-talented goldsmiths to work their magic. Depending on the ring, there can be a number of processes that the ring will go through on what is called the ‘bench’ – the workstation of the goldsmith. These include:
Sizing the ring: Ensuring it is the perfect ring size for the client’s finger.
Finishing: Gradually and skillfully removing the metal’s rough surface of the ring to start to reveal and create a smooth, blemish-free surface.
Soldering: If the ring has more than one part, they will need to be soldered together using high heat. This is a delicate but age-old process using minute bits of precious metal called solder, which melts at a lower temperature than the ring metal and floods the joints, essentially joining the elements together.
Pre-polish: Before the ring goes on to the stone setters, a pre-polish is applied to the ring. This starts to reveal the high polish we have grown to love about gold and platinum, but it is not the final polish.
Goldsmithing is the stage where the raw materials begin to take shape. The ring is crafted with great care, ensuring that each detail is perfect. From resizing to finishing, goldsmiths bring the ring closer to its final form, ensuring every element is in place.
Stone-setters
I must say that I am quite obsessed with stone setting especially on diamond rings - it is in some what my own love story with my profession! I have dabbled but in no way mastered it and I have a wish to some day develop my skills in this field. One of the beauties of this discipline is the fact that you combine different materials, stone and metal, with ingenious micro techniques! It is like microscopic engineering with an unbelievable level of precision achievable with the aid of microscopes.
So, back to the ring… The setter starts to work into the ring with certain drill bits on high speed motors in order to create the perfect seat or hole for the gems. A steady hand and years of experience is the key here as too much pressure or speed can cause damage. Depending on the style of setting required, sections of the metal are cut into using high pressure engravers (sharp steel cutting tools), and certain sections of the metal, such as claws, are carefully pushed over the edge of the stones to secure the stones in place. Each stone, including the centre stone must be double checked for security and there is an intense process of ‘cleaning’ up and cutting the setting area to ensure it looks beautiful and has a high polish.
Video: Part 04 - Setting Centre
2 minutes+ long
Perhaps we say ~”this satisfying 2 minute video shows the setting of a large pear shaped diamond”
Final Goldsmithing
So it’s back to Goldsmith now to put the final work into the piece - the last stage finishing and polishing. This is where the piece really starts to shine and every visible scratch and mark is removed using fine abrasive papers or rotational tools. Once the goldsmith is happy with all the surfaces it’s time for the final polishing where the metal’s ultra reflective shine is revealed. This is usually done using what are called mops, that are made from fabric and impregnated with polishing compounds - and then rotated at high speeds. Although it can be quite a messy stage, when the true reflective quality of the gold or platinum is seen one can't help but falling in love with this shiny material!
Following this, the ring is cleaned using an ultrasonic bath, QCd and then it's time for it to meet its owner!
I hope you found the process of how engagement rings are made to be of interest and as mentioned at the outset, I hope you see now that pieces of art like a unique engagement ring, although small, have so much detail in them!