Have you ever considered the significance of the engagement ring? With all the “how many carats is that diamond?”, and “what’s the cut clarity?” talk, we can forget what the ring is actually representing. Engagement rings represent a commitment to someone you love and who you want to spend the rest of your life with! Just re-read that and appreciate the weight of that sentence! It’s really something right? But why has the queen of the gemstones become the archetypal to the ring? Why do we see so many diamond engagement rings for women? Read on to find out….
What Makes Diamond Engagement Rings Special?
As you would expect there are few reasons why diamond has become the chosen one: Firstly, diamond is the most durable and hardwearing gemstone so she is highly suitable for most people’s everyday use from a practical perspective. They are also generally white signifying purity and bright futures. The unmatched brilliance and fire of diamonds add a highly desirable trait to this highly prized gemstone and the fact that they are available in a numerous array of sizes, shapes, colours and even inclusions means there is pretty much a diamond for every taste! We must not forget the strength of marketing also - diamond giants DeBeers are geniuses at crafting our perceptions and have been very instrumental in helping diamond engagement rings for women become the expectation - “A diamond is forever”!
The History of Diamond Engagement Rings
Diamonds have featured in rings for millennia but the first recorded use of one as an engagement ring was in 1477 commissioned by the Archduke Maximilian of Austria. Zooming up to the Victorian and Edwardian era, diamonds were increasingly used in intricate ring designs as jewellery skills and tooling improved. As the 20th century matured, diamonds became the staple engagement ring for women and we were even suggested (told!) how much we should spend on an engagement ring thanks again to DeBeers. Coming right to the digitally influenced present day, I am glad to say that engagement rings of all forms with a vast spectrum of different gemstones are being sought and worn. Although diamond engagement rings are still the favourite!
Diamond Cut: What It Really Means
When we talk about ‘cut’ in diamonds, it can actually refer to two distinct things: the 'shape' of the diamond (such as round, emerald or princess) and the 'quality of the cut' (proportions, symmetry, and polish). Both aspects dramatically influence the diamond’s brilliance, beauty, and overall appeal.
The shape is what you notice first – the aesthetic and style of the diamond – while the quality of the cut determines how well the diamond reflects light. Without getting too deep into the science, as you can see in the image below, diamonds have specific angles and proportions that can maximize their brilliance. A well-cut diamond “sings” with light and sparkle, while a poorly cut diamond can appear dull and lifeless.
Cut Quality Matters
Cut quality is, in many ways, the most important of the 4 Cs. It’s what transforms a rough diamond into a gem that dazzles. Achieving the perfect cut takes incredible skill and precision, and diamonds with ideal cuts command higher prices because of their unmatched sparkle. When shopping, always pay attention to the cut grade (Excellent or Ideal being the best) to ensure your stone is as vibrant as possible.
Types of Diamond Shapes
As alluded to already, when shopping for a diamond engagement ring, most designers and jewellers offer a variety of shapes. There are hundreds of shapes available, although some firm favourites include:
- 'Brilliant': The classic round cut, loved for its unmatched brilliance and symmetrical perfection.
- 'Princess': Square with sharp corners, offering a modern and bold look.
- 'Emerald': An elongated rectangular cut with fewer facets, exuding understated elegance. (7 o'clock in the image above)
- 'Marquis': A striking elongated shape with pointed ends, bold and eye-catching. (8 o'clock in the image above)
- 'Pear': Teardrop-shaped, combining curves and a pointed tip for a unique look. (4 o'clock in the image above)
- 'Asscher': A square cut with layered facets, iconic in Art Deco designs.
- 'The Rest!' - There are hundreds of other cuts which are having great popularity especially as it seems people want to express their individuality. The modern and dynamic Kite Cut has seen great popularity as well as the Rose Cut which is a much older cut and almost transparent. Talking about transparency, the Portrait Cut has seen surprising popularity of late showing how much brides-to-be are willing to go outside the box.
Each shape has its personality. For example, the emerald cut, with its clean lines and fewer facets, is perfect for someone who values subtle sophistication, while the brilliant cut suits those drawn to maximum sparkle. We go into a bit more detail about this later on in the post.
The Evolution of Diamond Cuts
It’s fascinating to see how diamond cuts have evolved over time. Traditional cuts like the rose and old mine are making a comeback, appreciated for their vintage charm. Modern advancements, including AI-driven cutting techniques, are paving the way for even more intricate and dazzling designs. As we continue exploring new possibilities, diamond cuts remain at the heart of engagement ring design, blending tradition with innovation.
The 4 Cs of Diamond Quality
Mostly everyone has heard of the 4 Cs. You could also say it is the 5 Cs when you consider that ‘Cut’ has shape as well as proportions/symetry/polish as alluded to in the previous paragraph. Let’s delve into the 4 Cs..
Carat: This is the unit of weight for a diamond and has evolved from the fact that a carab seed which has a uniform weight and thus used to weigh gemstones in past times. You also see diamonds weighed in ‘Points’ when under 1 carat in weight. 100 points is equal to 1 carat so a quarter carat or 0.25ct can also be referred to as 25 points. A word to the wise, avoid focusing on large diamonds just because you think it is expected or you are in competition with the Jones’s engagement ring. On a petit finger, a large, heavy diamond can look ridiculous and I have worked with many clients who see the larger stones as vulgar and a crass way of showing ones apparent wealth.
Cut: Discussed previously.
Clarity: This refers to how many inclusions there are within the diamond. Larger and more obvious inclusions can limit the amount of light that is reflected out from the stone. The purer the diamond the rarer it is and the more valuable and prized it will generally be. A grading scale (see image below) has been developed for clarity using certain abbreviations. Please understand also that the type, colour and position of an inclusion has a bearing on the value of the stone so it is always a great idea to consult with an expert who will explain the intricacies of the stone.
Colour: This typically refers to how colourless the diamond is - or you could also say how 'white'. The scale below shows clearly the scale with the colour D being the most highly prized and sought after. Diamonds with colour are also available and you may be familiar with yellow or chocolate coloured diamonds. A wide spectrum of colours is actually available and created in the earth by the presence of different elements during the creation of the diamond which only takes a few million years! Some coloured diamonds such as reds can fetch extraordinary prices.
Choosing the Right Precious Metal
There are a few considerations when choosing the precious metal type; Firstly understand if your partner has a preference - look at what jewellery your partner already has and pay attention to their skin tones. Pale skins with warm undertones work well with rose and yellow golds yet some people with darker complexions and cool blue undertones can find platinum and white gold are perfect for them.
Durability naturally has a hand to play here. Platinum is no doubt the most durable of the precious metals and interestingly it’s rather sticky consistency means that metal is moved around the ring more than being worn off as it is more so with golds.
Colour-wise, if it has to be white, platinum is a superior choice for white metals as white golds will always possess a slightly off-white colour that generally requires rhodium plating. This usually has to be re-applied every two or more years. If the colour is to be yellow or rose and your budget allows, if possible purchase the 18ct versions as they are usually harder than the 9ct variety and also have a much richer colour. From a purity perspective, the UK is the only place where 9ct gold is classed as a gold whereas all other countries regard it as an alloy with gold due to its low 37.5% gold purity. 18ct gold are 75% pure gold.
It’s important to add that white diamonds go beautifully with all metal colours, although the look is very different. When in platinum or white gold, the overall look is pure and pristine whereas with yellow and rose the look is much warmer and can enhance the whiteness of the diamond. Be aware that setting a diamond in white metals can highlight the more yellowy tinge of diamonds with a colour below H.
At the time of writing platinum is more cost effective than 18ct white gold and I would add that platinum is a denser metal than gold so the jewellery feels more substantial.
Other metals (not all precious) are available such as palladium, silver, titanium and even zirconium - please get in touch if you are interested in the pros and cons of these metals.
Choosing the Right Cut for Your Partner
The cut you choose should reflect not only your partner’s style but also what suits their hand. For instance:
- Long, slim fingers? Try an elongated cut like the emerald or marquis.
- Shorter, wider fingers? Opt for shapes like the brilliant or cushion, which add balance.
It’s also worth considering how the cut interacts with the setting and metal choice. Some cuts, like the brilliant, shine universally, while others, such as the pear, can be enhanced with a halo or bezel setting.
Your choice can also be influenced by the personalities attributed to the cuts in that they can match your partner's. Below is our guide to the qualities and characters of the favourite diamond cut’s:-
Brilliant Cut - The traditionalist, the classic, and the most popular. Loved by all, she is the most expensive mainly because of the wastage when cutting. She is the most brilliant and perfectly symmetrical adding to her popularity.
Princess Cut - The second most popular and almost as ‘twinkly’ as the brilliant. With her corners and straight edges she is a strong, confident and dependable cut.
Emerald Cut - Sophistication, sophistication and sophistication! I personally love this cut as she screams (quietly!) understated elegance. The linear and minimal facets give a corridor and tardis like depth to the stones.
Oval Cut - She has become super popular in recent years and can be described as balanced, yes a twist on the norm. The oval has wonderfully numerous facets although be careful that the stone you purchase doesn’t have a strong black bow-tie!
Cushion Cut - Possesses a large helping of nostalgia and are all about the curves. They are a direct descendant from the oh-so-terrific Old Mine Cuts and are romantic and dreamy!
Asscher Cut - My personal favourite mainly due to their geometry and, as with the emerald cut, their minimal, linear faceting creating their illusive depth. Pictured below, they are the Art Deco cut, love to stand out but in a very stylish and demure way!
Pear Cut - Also referred to as the teardrop, she is about curves and a point - so expresses two very different characters. Classic with an edgy flavour she is a confident purchase and is without doubt one of the more unique and individual cuts.
Marquis Cut - Charismatic, bold and unconventional. Wearable in two different ways, and both giving very different looks. Truly eye catching and excellent for the longer fingers when worn north to south.
Understanding Diamond Settings
The variety of diamond settings could and does indeed fill whole books just dedicated to this element of jewellery. For the purpose of this blog we will explore the most popular:
Claw Set - Certainly the most familiar of settings and a wonderful approach that can reveal so much of the diamond and hence allow light to enter the stone from all angles. It’s important that the claws have enough meat on the bones otherwise the security of the stone can be compromised. The claws can also catch especially when not worked on by a skilled setter.
Bezel Set - This can also be described as a rub-over setting and ultimately the entire rim of the diamond has a fine lip of metal over it. This is generally a very secure setting, smooth and there is nothing to catch.
Tension Set - What an amazing technique made popular by the German company Neissing. Incredibly strong metal alloys are used along with heavy profiles, giving the tension set stones a super level of durability. Important that the diamonds used in these settings are incredibly well cut and do not have large inclusions as the tension may cause issues.
Pave Settings - This generally describes the style when surfaces are covered (set) with small diamonds and usually the brilliant cut variety. They are secured by small grains and there are many differing styles. As microscope setting has flourished over recent decades, the possibilities of pave setting are truly phenomenal and stones as small as 0.4mm diameter can be set. As the trend of ‘not much visible metal’ has been strong in recent years, pave, which is French for ‘paved’, has reached great heights in popularity.
How to Find the Right Ring Size
Many ring styles can be resized so if the engagement ring is the wrong size it can be rectified. However if you can get the finger size correct first time, then this adds greatly to the romance of the moment. It’s important to add that there are engagement rings with which it’s not recommended to modify by many sizes so getting the size at least close is recommended!
Here are few suggestions to determine the finger size discreetly:-
- ‘Borrow’ a ring belonging to your partner. If it fits the engagement ring finger then it’s in the bag, but even if it’s not, the jeweller can make an educated estimate for the ring in question.
- If they can keep a secret, ask your partner’s family members or trusted friends if they have any ideas on the size.
- If your partner is a very heavy sleeper then borrow sample sizers from your jeweller/designer and see which one fits when your beloved is fast asleep! Good luck if you go for this one - it’s quite risky!
- Take some sneaky photos of your partner’s hand and give these to your jeweller so he can estimate. Not exact but better than nothing!
Budgeting for a Diamond Engagement Ring
Did you know that the ‘you must spend 3 months salary on an engagement ring’ was actually a marketing campaign started by the diamond company DeBeers? And it started out as 1 month and managed to creep up to 3!
My advice here is actually spend what you want but with the following three considerations…
Expectation. You will probably be aware if your partner has a certain level of expectation and it could be an awkward conversation if when the ring box opens there was a groan! So be sure to know if your partner is dreaming of a large rock or if petit is more her wish.
Feel. When you are searching for rings or discussing a bespoke design then whatever you decide on it should ‘feel’ right. By that I mean that you will get positive sensations in your body somewhere. Too often we forget to listen to this part of ourselves when actually it really knows what’s what!
Significance. The importance of this ring can’t be stressed enough. It is symbolising the most important relationship you will ever have so I believe this should be reflected in quality, style and longevity. Naturally these three elements will add to the cost.
Know that lab-grown diamonds, should your partner be ok with them, are a method of acquiring larger stones for a great price. And also that investing money into a bespoke design can be a super idea as it shows that you really thought about the ring as opposed to scrolling through instagram ;)
Ethical and Sustainable Diamond Choices
The world of diamond engagement rings has seen a significant ethical transformation in recent years, with an increasing demand for conflict-free and lab-grown diamonds. Traditional diamond mining has historically been linked to environmental harm and exploitative labour practices, but ethical alternatives now offer couples the opportunity to celebrate their love with a clearer conscience. Lab-grown diamonds, which are physically and chemically identical to their natural counterparts, are created in controlled environments, reducing both the carbon footprint and ethical concerns associated with mining. Conflict-free diamonds, on the other hand, ensure that the gems are sourced from regions and supply chains that adhere to strict humanitarian and environmental standards, such as those certified by the Kimberley Process. It’s important to state that there are certain energy concerns with lag-grown diamonds depending on the method in which they are created.
Traceability has become a cornerstone of ethical diamond sourcing, empowering buyers to make informed decisions about the origins of their precious stones. Brands and independent jewellers increasingly embrace blockchain technology and detailed supply chain tracking, offering transparency from mine to market. This allows couples to choose rings that align with their personal values while supporting fair practices across the world.
Sustainability in luxury has shifted from being a niche trend to an expectation. An engagement ring can be more than a symbol of love; it can also be a reflection of the values shared between two people. Opting for sustainable choices - whether through recycled metals, responsibly mined diamonds, or lab-grown alternatives - demonstrates a commitment to both the planet and ethical craftsmanship. In this way, the beauty of the ring extends beyond its sparkle, embodying a deeper story of care, responsibility, and a shared vision for a more considered future.
Lab-Grown Diamonds vs. Natural Diamonds
- Why lab-grown diamonds appeal to the conscious consumer.
- Addressing misconceptions about lab-grown stones versus their mined counterparts.
- Insight into the changing narrative around authenticity in luxury.
Once again, I would be aware of your partner’s perceptions and expectations when it comes choosing between labgrown and natural diamonds. A story was once regaled to me by one of my retail partners of a lady who refused the engagement ring when she read ‘Lab-Grown’ on the certificate! If your partner is more on the romantic and nostalgic side then the fact that a natural diamond took a billion years to create would have more of an appeal than the more instant lab-grown variety. And conversely if your partner is super modern and embraces all things digital and modern tech, then lab-grown could be perfect.
If budget is a concern, lab-grown diamonds are significantly less, dramatically so for the a larger diamond size. But keep in mind they may lose value over time as they have historically, while natural diamonds have typically appreciated.
When it comes to ethics, it’s important to mention that both have their issues; Natural diamonds have environmental concerns but one should also realise that the diamond mining industry supports millions of livelihoods. For lab-grown diamonds the ethical concerns are energy-related in terms of the energy consumption to create the stones.
A Bespoke Diamond Engagement Ring
- The unique allure of co-designing with a jeweler to tell a personal story.
- Popular custom options: hidden details, mixed metals, or incorporating heirlooms.
Bespoke diamond engagement rings are unique and can symbolize anything from your ‘infinite’ love to a favourite creature! Collaborating closely with the designer makes for a wonderfully enjoyable and deep process. Know that this will take time and would increase costs due to consultations and design work but the fact that your ring is a one of a kind and represents something special to you and your partner is gold!
There’s also the chance to make an off-the-shelf ring bespoke. Brands like mine allow for personalization, such as engravings and even design tweaks. So, if you are thinking of an off-the-shelf style but want to make it unique for your loved one this can be a great solution.
My advice would be that before you make a decision for an off the shelf variety, speak to a design and understand the implications and possibilities - you may be amazed at what is possible!
Popular Engagement Ring Styles and Trends
- Vintage designs for romantic nostalgia.
- Bold modern pieces that celebrate individuality.
- Mixing and matching styles for a unique twist.
There are many styles of engagement rings and we can simplify them into the following categories and discuss who they may suit:-
Classic. Many traditional styles have become iconic rings partly to do with the fact that they just work perfectly and that over the years they have become more refined and balanced. This is no doubt the most popular style and really appeals to the nostalgic and romantic among us.
Vintage. Similarly to the Classic style, vintage diamond engagement rings appeal to those who would have preferred to have been born in the 20s. It’s important to say that some vintage diamond engagement rings can also be very daring and ‘out-there’ especially with the Art-Deco period.
Contemporary. A huge category incorporating some weird and wonderful styles and also some incredibly beautiful and simple approaches. Appeals to the more modern, organised and confident type- and they really know what they like - and what they dont like!
Modern-Classics. This fusion style is very much what i would describe my style in that it has classic sensibilities but with very much a designer and innovative edge. Perfect for those who respect tradition but also respect their individuality - and a strong love for design.
Within most of these styles you have further types such as halo, solitaire, three stone, five stone, shoulder set - the list goes on. Get in touch if you would like more information on the styles available.
Celebrity Engagement Rings: Inspiration or Cautionary Tale?
- Discuss the allure and pitfalls of emulating celebrity trends.
- How to extract ideas without falling into the trap of impractical designs.
We are no doubt in a world where celebrities are copied, admired and sometimes stalked! Whereas it’s not my affair to be telling people not to be inspired by others, I would just offer a word of warning that a celebrity can be here today and gone tomorrow - and many of them are! And some, as do non celebrities, have ‘very interesting’ style choices! So I would finish by saying when choosing a diamond engagement ring, if a celebrity you admire wears a ring that really speaks to you from a design and beauty perspective then this could be a great direction to follow - but be careful if it’s all about the Kardashian!
Diamond Engagement Ring Maintenance and Care
- The importance of routine cleaning and professional checks.
- Common mistakes that can damage a ring, like wearing it during physical activity.
Due to the fact that rings will experience all manners of wear and tear throughout their life and that diamond engagement rings will have at least one piece of glistening treasure on board, it is important that the ring is cared for in the following ways:-
At least every two years take your ring to where you purchased it from or a reputable jewellery for a health check. They will check the diamond settings and for any damage that need rectifying. It is also a great opportunity to get the shine back on the ring so it looks almost like new. It is super important to do this as your insurance company may actually stipulate it but also longer lasting damage of stone loss can be avoided by regular checks.
Avoid wearing your diamond engagement ring during activities where the ring will experience unnatural wear and tear - such as gardening, washing the dishes, gym work and mucking out the horses for examples! Swimming in chlorinated pools can play havoc with certain metals, stones and solder joins so best keep them dry!
If you notice your delightful diamond being duller than normal, use an old toothbrush with some hot, soapy water and gently get the bristles in the back of the setting. This will remove dead skin, hand creams and maybe even the odd noodle if you are partial!
How to Propose with a Diamond Engagement Ring
- Personalized proposal ideas that reflect shared memories or future aspirations.
- How the ring can be part of the moment’s storytelling.
Carefully consider what will make this moment truly meaningful for you both. Remember, the idea is that you only do this once, so every detail matters! To keep this super simple there are two main considerations: Location and Activity.
Location: The spot you choose is crucial so consider places that hold significance for both of you—like where you first met or shared a special holiday. If your partner loves art, for example, proposing at the Louvre could be unforgettable! Focus on significance rather than extravagance; it’s all about the sentiment.
Activity: The event or activity you choose can enhance the emotion of the moment. For instance, if she’s a runner, proposing as she crosses the finish line could create a beautiful memory. Look for opportunities in emotionally charged atmospheres; this will help her feel the moment deeply. but be clear if she would appreciate privacy or on show!
Be Prepared: Make sure you know what you want to say and how you’ll say it, but let it come from the heart. Don’t overthink it or rely too much on others’ ideas—this is your moment!
Oh, and Don’t Forget the bloody! Ring!
How to Choose the Right Diamond Retailer
- Importance of transparency, certification, and customer education.
- Why working with an independent jeweler can offer unparalleled personalization.
There is quite a choice here including high street retailers, online retailers, designers, brands etc. Usually one has something in mind or a preferred way of purchasing and I would again advise to go with what ‘feels’ right. A diamond engagement ring is not an insignificant purchase and it isn’t too hard to be tripped up and end up buying something which isn't really what it claims to be or it looked so much better in the images! My advice, although a little bias, would be to go to experts who can show and discuss with you their engagement ring collection. Ask them all the questions you need and arm yourself with all the options and facts. Know that they alone have a true depth of knowledge about the subject and can advise on all aspects including personalisation.
A British hallmark is also a great guarantee that the metal stated is true and a reputable diamond certification such as GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) can help to reduce any nerves or worries.
Alternative Engagement Rings: Beyond Diamonds
- Growing popularity of colored gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, or even moissanite.
- Unique design choices for the non-traditional couple.
Diamonds are surely not for everyone but although the title of this post is about Diamond Engagement Rings for Women, it seems right to say a few words about alternative stones. I love a diamond, that’s for sure, but I must also say that coloured gemstones can be a superb choice especially if you really want to have a unique engagement ring that your partner will adore. The choice of gemstones would needs a few more posts but just to say if you prefer some colour, then ensure that the gemstone is hardwearing - and - consider involving diamonds such as a halo to really make the colour pop!
When Should You Buy the Engagement Ring?
- Discuss timing for custom designs versus ready-to-wear.
- Tips for navigating seasonal price fluctuations.
To put it simply - in good time for your planned proposal! Some diamond engagement rings can be shipped the same week if they are stocked by the jeweller. More often than not they can also take up to a few weeks to create. Bespokes can take considerably longer depending on the complexity of the design and how quick you can arrive at the ‘perfect piece’! Know that Christmas is a crazy time for jewellers so add time on if you want to do a Christmas or New Year proposal! Speak with your preferred jeweller/design when you want to start the process of choosing an engagement ring and ask about their lead times.
Why Diamond Engagement Rings Remain a Timeless Tradition
- Reflect on how they’ve evolved while retaining their emotional significance.
- The universal symbolism that transcends trends and fads.
To finish this post I would like to say that after working with engagement rings and proposing partners for over 25 years, I have come to see more and more how truly important these small loops of precious metal and shiny stones are! Do we really understand the true depth of love - we can say ‘I Love you’ but does this really convey the depth of what it means. Perhaps a beautifully made, deeply considered and perfectly proportioned miniature piece of finger art can!