In the world of high jewellery, few names provoke such strong and divided reactions as JAR - Joel Arthur Rosenthal. To some, he’s a genius: an artist who redefined what jewellery can be. To others, he’s frustratingly inaccessible, even arrogant. The hundreds of comments on my Instagram reel about JAR were mainly in awe of his work but there were a handful that spoke of his rudeness and arrogance. But one thing’s for certain - he’s unforgettable.
Who is JAR?
Born in New York in 1943, Rosenthal studied art history and philosophy at Harvard before moving to Paris. He had a brief stint in needlepoint and film, but it was in jewellery - and in secrecy - that he found his true voice. In 1978, he opened his discreet atelier on Place Vendôme. No signage. No fanfare. Just incredible jewels - and for you if you were famous or rich enough to get your hands on one.
What Makes His Work So Special?
JAR’s pieces are theatrical, tactile, and almost technically impossible! Often inspired by nature - flowers, butterflies, shells - his work plays with light, texture, and contrast in a way that borders on obsessive.
He’s known for pushing materials to their limits: titanium, aluminium, even unconventional stones like spinel or garnet, given the reverence usually reserved for diamonds. He is even applauded for placing titanium on the map within fine jewellery, being one of the first to really champion the metal in this way.
Every piece is bespoke. Every detail, intentional. And nothing is designed for mass appeal.
The Catch?
You can’t just walk in and buy a JAR piece. In fact, you’re unlikely to be allowed in at all.
As far as I know JAR only sells to people he chooses to sell to. No prices. No photos. No requests. Even major collectors have been turned away. His one retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2013 gave the public a rare chance to see his work, but even then, it was only a mere glimpse.
How can we summarise JARS genius?
- Uncompromised vision: He creates for the art, not for the market.
- Masterful craftsmanship: Technically and creatively, few come close.
- He created a cult following: JAR is a name whispered reverently in collector circles.
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His work increases in value: Many pieces have soared in price when they hit auction.
Why He Matters
JAR challenges everything we think we know about luxury. While the rest of the world races to be seen, liked, followed, shared and sold - he pretty much disappears. But in a strange way becomes super noticeable in his disappearance!
Perhaps that refusal to play the game might be his greatest power.
Parting Note
Whether you love or loathe him, JAR is a master of the art of jewellery and of mystery - and that mystery has become its own kind of value. But it seems like, just as true, true masters are rare, so are the ones that maintain this mysterious and almost reclusive existence. Not to compare apples with oranges, but for most jewellers today, mystery is not their prime focus.
They realise that clients crave connection, conversation, and clarity. I have been called a few things in my time but mysterious is not one of them! And I would add at Andrew Geoghegan, I aim for a different kind of experience - where the beauty of the piece is matched by the connections I strive for with my clients and the joy experienced within the process.
